It's pizza, it's birra (beer), and it's so much more. Simple logo-stamped brown paper covers the tables, grey bentwood chairs lock chic against black-washed floorboards, and a large distressed mirror reflects wine bottles and the broad Fitzroy Street window that catches a good bit os sky and scenery. On-the-go waitstaff (at times overstretched) flit from the bar to kitchen, where superb pizzas are loaded in and out of the wood-fired oven on big paddles. Hand-stretched dough creates crisp, bubbles bases supporting flavoursome toppings, like mozzarella, spinach, mixed mushrooms, cherry tomatoes, olives, parmesan and basil - teamed with a gusty house pale ale, it makes a perfect duet.
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It's a familiar story. How one of the founders of the successful Caffe e Cucina in Chapel Street leaves his next place, another success in St Kilda, to become a hit in Sydney. He then returns triumphantly to Melbourne to open another place.

It is a neat encapsulation of Maurizio Terzini's career with his imminent openinf of Giuseppe, Arnaldo & Sons at Crown in March, but it is a tale already told by Mauro Marcucci, who opened a Melbourne branch of his successful Sydney casual Italian, Pizza e Birra, at the end of last year on the site of Termini, the St Kilda restaurant that he opened after e Cuccina.
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It's a familiar story. How one of the founders of the successful Caffe e Cucina in Chapel Street leaves his next place, another success in St Kilda, to become a hit in Sydney. He then returns triumphantly to Melbourne to open another place.

It is a neat encapsulation of Maurizio Terzini's career with his imminent openinf of Giuseppe, Arnaldo & Sons at Crown in March, but it is a tale already told by Mauro Marcucci, who opened a Melbourne branch of his successful Sydney casual Italian, Pizza e Birra, at the end of last year on the site of Termini, the St Kilda restaurant that he opened after e Cuccina.
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The second wave of Melbourne's pizza renaissance is in full swing. In the north corner we have Carlton's D.O.C. We like. In the south corner, St Kild'a hot-as-Hades Pizza e Birra. We like very much too. The southerner has gone wood-oven route, which adds a little something in my view, and with a pizza names "lasagna" they may have an instant classic on their hands: a big base layered up with tomato sugi, thinly sliced smoked hame, mozarella, multiple dollops of creamed ricotta and a judicious scattering of grated parmesan at the end producing a saltym golden brown patina. Fresh bail leaves and olive oil finish the job.
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In Naples they cut hands off for using a roling pin, owner Marcucci once said. Indeed here the pizza base is of the thin, delicate variety, having been stretched out by two intact hands. There are two types to choose from. The tomato-based "pizze traditional" include the margherita, napoletana or the rich lasgana. The "pizze biache" are deliciously mushroom heavy and sometimes even green, being topped with crushed green olives, capers, garlic, rocket, sausage and mozzarella. Start with the house borra (by Holgate Hill) or a prosecco from the compact list of value local and Italian wines.
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We began with a bowl of warm italian olives as good as any I have tasted, a shared pizza and a brace of iced Birra, the Woodend-brewed house offering. We chose - not necessarily out of patriotic fervour and/or respect for the lovely Queen of Italy, Margherita of Savot - a generous Margherita pizza in its red (tomtato) white (buffalo mozzarella) and green (basil) livery.
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